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View from above
I recently visited the newly re-designed Vouni Panayia winery in Paphos and after a tour of the winery enjoyed the wines in one of the two Vouni restaurants that are part of the winery.
The altitude is 850 metres above sea level, allowing visitors to enjoy the view from the northwest of Chrysochou Bay all the way across the Akamas Peninsula, taking in Laona heights, the hills of Vouni and right down to Paphos airport. The winery has been redesigned to accommodate visitors and has an integrated custom-made visitor and education centre.
The dream for Andreas and Thelma Kyriakides started in 1987, when a young man then decided to leave his cosy government job and venture into winemaking. I first met him in 1992, just as he completed the first phase of the winery. Since then I have visited the winery several times and frequently tasted its wines. He is a passionate winemaker and he can talk for hours about his wines, his experiments in winemaking sharing his thoughts with anyone who cared. Most importantly he would always listen to any advice anyone cared to offer to him.
A new trend in Cyprus, food and wine literally combine in the winery. Vouni has two restaurants serving traditional dishes, all home-cooked on the premises by Andreas’ relatives. The head chef is no other than Thelma. There is one restaurant for al fresco dining during the summer and a second which is enclosed for winter use with plenty of space for large parties and celebrations. But on to the wines…
2009 Alina, Vouni Panayia Winery, Pafos Regional, abv 11.5%
The Panayia wine region is particularly suited to growing aromatic and flavoursome Xinisteri with some good minerality. The cooler climate and uniform limestone soils give rise to slower ripening and better flavour accumulation in the berries. This Alina comes from the old practice, light in alcohol wines that combat the heat during a light lunch. Light yellow, mid straw in colour with lemon tones, the varietal grassy aromas dominate initially, before opening into a tropical expression of mango and melon along with pear notes, followed by spearmint. The palate is dry and light to medium body, with a generous mouth feel. There are layers of citrus characters, lemon and mineral acidity lead into a long, lingering finish. The wine is ready for immediate enjoyment and its mineral acidity will hold up to many different Mediterranean recipes like grilled chicken with herbs, green beans in tomato sauce, mixed greens salad with tomato and goat cheese, fried vegetables with eggs, seafood especially grilled scallops and leeks, enjoyable also with mild cheeses. €4.83
2009 Alina Medium Dry, Vouni Panayia Winery, Pafos Regional abv 11%
This is the sweeter version of Xinisteri, pale yellow with green touches, aromas of grass and green apple at first followed by pineapple, citrus blossoms, chamomile, iris and herbs. On the palate, it is light-bodied and refreshing, flavours of citrus fruit, ripe mango and pineapple and grass notes. Crisp, lovely balanced with fruit and acidity and strictly for those with a sweeter taste. This is a good aperitif, hors d’oeuvre with fruit, fish or chicken dishes with a light spicy flavour, cuisines such as Chinese, Mexican and Indian, mild sausages. €4.83
2009 Pampela Rosé, Vouni Panayia Winery, Pafos Regional, abv 12%
This blend of Mavro, Maratheftiko and Pampela is named after the region of the vineyards. It is darkly hued, closer to light red than pink pomegranate colour. The aromatics are citrus, rose petal, cherry and wild strawberries. A first sip reveals strong notes of strawberry preserve and fresh raspberries that linger and are joined by layers of pomegranate tartness and minerality from Panayia limestone soils that shines in most Vouni Panayia wines. There are little bursts of flavour as the wine refreshes the palate – hints of white peach and hibiscus tea. Perfectly dry and seriously made, but still a wine to be enjoyed rather than analyzed, try it with gazpacho and shrimp, baked goat cheese and sautéed Calamari with tomato sauce, grilled lountza or stuffed courgette blossoms. €4.83
2008 Plakota, Vouni Panayia Winery, Pafos Regional, abv 13%
Also named after the region of the vineyards, this is a blend of Mavro grape and Maratheftiko. Red violet in colour, squeeze your nose into the glass and smell aromas of raisins with overtones of warm raspberry, spicy stew, pepper and dried cherry fruit. Smooth, dry and medium bodied, this is an easy drinking red with heaps of red fruit and herbs, lightly spiced, with dry tannins, leading to a pleasing, acid balanced finish. Simple, this is a great fun wine to try with grilled lamb chops, pork kebabs or roast chicken with herbs, onions and tomato. €5.18
2004 Barba Yiannis Maratheftiko, Vouni Panayia Winery, Pafos Region, abv 12.5%
Still classic Maratheftiko style aged in French barriques. Crimson red colour, some scents of black coffee and liquorice as a result of the barrel fermentation escort the fruity aromas of morello cherry, cassis and red currant along with a touch of mild herbs and sweet spice. Upon entry there are layers of rich, ripe fruit, not as thick as I was expecting, but enough weight (in terms of complexity) on the tongue. There is an element of minerals and liquorice with enough depth and tannin to help this improve further. It is delicious with roasted leg of lamb or meat loaf with gravy. €9.55
2002 Barba Yiannis Maratheftiko, Vouni Panayia Winery, Pafos Region, abv 12.5%
Perhaps one of his finest works using the main red indigenous grape variety, Maratheftiko. The wine is aged in French barriques; the colour, crimson red with a slight clearing around the rim. Noticeable Maratheftiko elements, more subtle and complex aromas than the 2004 vintage, the wood is there but not overpowering. It is a pleasant wine and above all harmonious with fruit aromas of morello cherry, blueberry and currants, some spice and mint. On the palate the wine is full, supple and tasty. There is a wonderful balance between fruit and tannins. The red fruit is there as well, not super deep but satisfying. A hint of astringency to the finish but nothing too bad. This aged wine can be paired plain broiled steak, lamb kleftiko or grilled pork belly, strong cheddar or Danish blue. €18.98
To contact Vouni Panayia Winery, Tel: 26 722770
